Itinerary conceived and recommended by Meridiani
All motorcycle riders, at least once in their lives, deserve a coast to coast. This is a term that immediately brings the United States and Route 66 to mind, but there are thousands of coast to coast rides waiting to be enjoyed all over the world, and Italy is no exception to this.
ITINERARY
The Peninsula can be crossed at several points from the Tyrrhenian to the Adriatic, or more simply, you can go from the Ionian to the Adriatic in that "Finibus Terrae" which represents a meeting place between the two basins of our sea. However, don't be fooled by the term “simply”, because even if the distance as the crow flies is no more than about fifty kilometres, it is possible to take an unforgettable trip in a magical land of contrasts dominated by three elements: lu sule, lu mare, lu ientu (sun, sea and wind). Welcome to Salento.
The itinerary is an open interpretation of one of the many routes “of the two seas”, the ones that locals and tourists follow during the summer months in search of the most calm and crystal clear water. The southern part of Puglia has the characteristics of an island. Therefore, the relatively short distance between one coast and the other allows you to easily reach a beach where the sea is almost still, choosing the Adriatic if the wind is blowing from the south-east or the Ionian if the wind is coming from the opposite direction.
For the departure point, we have chosen Punta Prosciutto, a specific section of the coast that stands out for its crystal-clear water, white sand and fabulous sunsets, especially in the off season, when, instead of being swamped by tourists, the beaches are an inviting corner of quiet paradise. There are various possibilities for travelling toward Lecce, the fastest (but certainly not the most fun) being the motorway that gets you to your destination in about a half hour.
Nevertheless, there are various opportunities because there are small roads scattered all over this area that arrive radially in the numerous towns, all with a striking characteristic. Instead of going around the medium-sized towns, you will suddenly find yourself on the streets of the town centre, obligatorily passing between the houses with their front doors right there on the streets, favouring the social life in the summer months. And, you'll continue through the centre square, dominated by the church made in Leccese stone, with clear Baroque influence.
From Punta Prosciutto, the route goes towards Avetrana, a small town with its characteristic, sun-scorched centre, then heading towards Lecce, running along the stretches which alternate between olive groves and the rows of grapes used to make Negramaro. We always recommend avoiding the main roads and forgetting about maps and roadbooks, pressing on instead through the winding lanes, using only the position of the sun (which is a typical element here, with the sea and the wind) to maintain your bearings.
The homes and squares, all similar to one another, will create the sensation that you are going in circles, always coming back to the same place, but in all actuality, you zigzag forward in the right direction, and your arrival in Lecce will confirm as much. Don't be fooled by the anonymous outskirts and the bypass that do not do it justice. The Salento “capital” should be explored on foot, entering from one of the three doors – in the past there was also a fourth – that access the historic centre.
The area is entirely restored in complete respect of the original architecture, full of charm and dotted with welcoming places which, after sundown, crank up into a nightlife in no way inferior to that of Barcelona. Lecce is a city just waiting to be discovered and that takes at least two days (three would be better) and two nights. It is the home of the magnificent baroque, in its various forms, not only for its religious architecture, thanks to how easy it is to work the Leccese stone.
You'll regretfully leave the city behind with a promise that you'll be back soon, continuing south-east towards the sea. But in this case, once again, the most direct roads will not be taken. You'll pass through Acaya, a small, fortified village in the countryside, and Melendugno, venturing through the narrow streets that open up between dry-stone walls, prickly pears and the ever-present olive trees rooted deeply in the red soil.
And then, suddenly, there is the Adriatic, in one of its most charming forms. The itinerary can be followed any day of the year, but from the end of September and well into the spring, an expert guide will know how to most faithfully follow the outline of the coast, following offroad sections that are sometimes rather demanding if tackled astride a maxi-enduro complete with luggage. But it's worth trying, because the reefs and the bays, from Torre dell’Orso to San Foca, from Baia dei Turchi to the Cave of Poetry, will repay all the effort and perspiration.
Just a quick detour inland to pass by the Alimini Lakes, and then the itinerary will go back to following the sea until entering the dazzling Otranto, the easternmost village and a member of that exclusive club of the 100 most beautiful villages in Italy. A city that should be toured strictly on foot, losing yourself among its back streets and admiring the nuances of the sea from the walls of the castle.
Then, back in the saddle, following the ideal route that connects the watchtowers, passing from the area of the antique bauxite digs, where the land has an even more intense colour and the lake water has such an intense shade that it can hardly be categorised. The route will continue towards Santa Cesarea Terme and its stairways carved into the rock that lead to the natural pools, and towards Castro, known for being razed to the ground by a landslide, but above all for its Zinzulusa Cave, one of the most magical points of Salento.
And our trip will come to an end a bit farther south, at the Palascìa lighthouse, where the Ionian and the Adriatic truly meet, although in the collective imagination, this matrimony is celebrated at Maria di Leuca, the true and proper "Finibus Terrae".
GALLERY
